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São Paulo City Guide with Pedro Gariani
There are cities you visit, and then there are cities that seem to pull you into their rhythm. São Paulo is firmly in the second category. It’s a sprawling mix of concrete, colour, late nights, incredible food and seemingly endless possibilities, a city where you can start the day slowly and have absolutely no idea where the night will take you.
It also makes a fitting backdrop for Pedro Gariani. A DJ, producer and curator deeply connected to Brazil’s club culture, Pedro has spent the last few years taking his sound far beyond São Paulo, from Brazilian festivals and dancefloors to international stages. His latest release, Saci, brings that Brazilian connection directly into the music, drawing on one of the country’s best known folklore characters for a hypnotic, percussion heavy house track.
But before we get to the dancefloor, we asked Pedro to show us his São Paulo, the places he returns to, the spots he recommends to friends, and a few of the places that make the city worth getting lost in. Take it Away Perdro…
‘’São Paulo is a city that can feel overwhelming at first, but I think that’s also what makes it so interesting. It’s huge, chaotic, constantly changing, and every neighborhood feels like its own little world.
What I like most about the city is that there’s always something happening somewhere. You can spend the afternoon visiting a museum, have dinner at an amazing restaurant, stop somewhere for drinks and then end up on a dancefloor until late. There’s a very particular energy here that comes from all these different scenes, cultures and people existing at the same time.
This isn’t necessarily a list of São Paulo’s most famous places. It’s more a selection of spots that, for different reasons, represent the city I like and the way I experience it.’’
TO EAT: CAPIM SANTO
Capim Santo is one of my favorite restaurants for Brazilian food in São Paulo. It’s located inside Solar Fábio Prado, the former home of Museu da Casa Brasileira, a beautiful building surrounded by a huge garden.
The setting is very peaceful, especially considering that you’re right in the middle of one of the busiest parts of the city, and the food is an excellent introduction to Brazilian cuisine.
TO DRINK: BAR DA DONA ONÇA
Bar da Dona Onça sits inside the iconic Copan building, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, right in the center of São Paulo.
It’s a great place to try Brazilian snacks and dishes while having a good caipirinha. I also like it because it gives you an excuse to spend some time in the city center and experience one of São Paulo’s most recognizable buildings.
FOR CULTURE: PINACOTECA, MUSEU DO IPIRANGA & CASA DE VIDRO
The Pinacoteca is one of my favorite cultural institutions in São Paulo. It has a very diverse collection and exhibition program, and the newer Pina Contemporânea building is incredible in itself. The architecture is beautiful and the whole complex is definitely worth spending a few hours exploring.
If you want to understand a little more about Brazilian history, I also recommend the Museu do Ipiranga. The museum is dedicated to Brazilian history and material culture, and the building itself is already worth the visit.
For architecture and design, Casa de Vidro is another place I really like. Designed by Lina Bo Bardi as her own home, it’s surrounded by greenery in Morumbi and is one of the most important examples of Brazilian modernist architecture.
FOR A NIGHT OUT: FOLLOW THE PARTIES
São Paulo nightlife is much more centered around parties than clubs, so it’s difficult for me to recommend one specific place. The best option can be completely different from one weekend to another.
I always recommend checking Resident Advisor before coming and following local Instagram pages such as @technosp, which share what’s happening around the city. That’s usually the best way to understand where people are actually going that weekend.
TO LISTEN TO GOOD MUSIC: STARLANE
Starlane is a great option if you want to eat, have some drinks and listen to good music without necessarily committing to a full club night.
From Tuesday to Thursday, the atmosphere is more relaxed and you can sit, eat and enjoy the music. On Fridays and Saturdays, things get busier and more informal, with a small dancefloor running until 2 AM.
It’s regularly open from Tuesday to Saturday, so it’s also one of the easier places to recommend when someone is visiting during the week.
FOR RECORDS: PATUÁ DISCOS
Patuá Discos is one of my favorite record stores in São Paulo. It has a great selection that goes from Brazilian music to jazz, soul, funk, disco, reggae and Latin music, so it’s an easy place to spend some time digging through records.
Fridays are especially nice because they regularly host Vai Na Fé!, with DJ sets, record and book launches and occasional live performances.
FOR COFFEE: MUG JARDINS
For coffee or brunch, I like Mug in Jardins. It’s inside a house with a garden, so it has a very relaxed and pleasant atmosphere and feels quite different from most cafés in such a busy part of the city.
If you go on a Friday, there’s also a traditional street market on the same street. São Paulo has street markets happening all over the city throughout the week, and I think they’re a nice way to experience something very local. You can have breakfast or coffee at Mug and then walk through the market afterwards.
FOR SOME TIME OUTDOORS: IBIRAPUERA PARK
Ibirapuera is my favorite park in São Paulo. It’s huge and there’s always a lot happening, whether you want to walk, exercise, visit one of the museums or simply spend some time outside.
There are also some very good restaurants inside and around the park now. Selvagem is one of them, and Jardim Churrascada is a good opportunity for someone visiting Brazil to combine a day at Ibirapuera with Brazilian barbecue.
FOR THE VIEW: ICCARUS & MARTINELLI
São Paulo is a city of buildings, so seeing it from above gives you a completely different perspective.
Iccarus combines a rooftop bar and restaurant with a small dancefloor. The food is excellent and there’s always a strong music program, so it works well if you want the view but still want somewhere with some energy later in the night.
The Martinelli building is another favorite. The view from the top is exceptional, especially because you’re right in the historic center. It works differently, though. The rooftop often hosts different parties and events rather than operating as a regular bar, so I recommend checking the program in advance and buying tickets before going.
